Paolo de Marchi

Paolo De Marchi’s journey in the wine world is a narrative of vision, passion, and unwavering dedication to the craft of winemaking. Born into a family with roots in Piedmont, Italy, De Marchi’s path would eventually lead him to Tuscany, where he would redefine the potential of Sangiovese grapes and the region’s winemaking legacy. The De Marchi family, having small vineyards in the north of Piedmont, ventured southward in 1956 when Paolo’s father acquired the Isole e Olena estate, encompassing two once-abandoned hamlets and their vineyards. This move laid the groundwork for what would become a monumental chapter in Italian viticulture, spearheaded by Paolo De Marchi himself.

After completing his studies in agricultural sciences, viticulture, and winemaking, De Marchi took the helm of Isole e Olena in 1976, embarking on a transformative journey. The early years, as De Marchi recounts, were marked by challenges and the rigorous pursuit of a vision fueled by sheer passion rather than the allure of success or financial gain. This period of struggle, however, was the crucible in which the estate’s signature approach to winemaking was forged.

De Marchi’s innovative spirit was evident early on as he began to question and subsequently alter the traditional practices that had defined Chianti winemaking for centuries. Challenging the status quo, he reduced the proportion of white grapes in the blend, a practice that had been dictated by outdated appellation requirements and agricultural customs. By focusing on improving the quality of the red wines through what is known as “massal selection,” De Marchi identified and propagated Sangiovese vines based on their performance rather than their genetic lineage. This meticulous selection process laid the foundation for Cepparello, a wine that would become the estate’s flagship and a symbol of quality and innovation in Italian winemaking.

Cepparello, named after a creek running through the estate, emerged as a testament to De Marchi’s vision. First bottled in 1980, this 100% Sangiovese wine broke from tradition at a time when legal classifications constrained the expression of Chianti Classico wines. By choosing to label Cepparello as a Vino Da Tavola, De Marchi not only circumvented these restrictions but also set a new standard for quality and purity in Sangiovese wines. Cepparello’s success on the international stage helped to elevate not just Isole e Olena but the entire Chianti region, showcasing the potential of its terroir and its flagship grape variety.

De Marchi’s contributions extend beyond his own estate. His efforts in vine selection and his pioneering work in soil mapping have influenced viticulture practices across Chianti Classico and beyond. His approach to zoning, aimed at understanding the intricate relationship between vine genetics and soil composition, was among the first of its kind in the region. This scientific curiosity and hands-on experimentation have been central to De Marchi’s philosophy, emphasizing the importance of working in harmony with nature to express the true character of the terroir.

As De Marchi nears retirement, his legacy is marked not only by the exceptional wines of Isole e Olena but by his profound impact on Italian winemaking. The decision to pass on the stewardship of the estate reflects a deep respect for the land and the continuity of tradition, even as he plans to join his son in Alto Piemonte. Through nearly five decades, De Marchi has exemplified how vision and passion can indeed move the world of wine, leaving an indelible mark on the landscape of Italian viticulture. His story is a testament to the power of curiosity, the pursuit of excellence, and the transformative potential of dedication to one’s craft.