Pais (Mission)

The Mission (or Pais) grape varietal holds a unique place in the annals of viticulture, marking a significant chapter in the history of wine. Known as Criolla Chica in Argentina, Pais in Chile, and Mission in North America, this grape has traversed continents and centuries, adapting to diverse environments and leaving an indelible mark on the wine world.

What is it?
The Mission grape varietal is a red grape that claims the title of the first Vitis vinifera species exported from the Old World (Spain) to the New World (Mexico) in the 16th Century. Its journey did not stop there; it was carried further into what is now the United States, thriving in the missions established by Franciscan monks. Genetic studies have linked the Mission grape to the Listán Prieto variety from Castilla-La Mancha, Spain, a variety now rare in its homeland but still found in the Canary Islands. Over the years, the Mission grape has undergone significant mutation, distinguishing it as a unique variety despite its historical confusion with other grapes like Listán Negro.

Regions of Growth and Climatic Conditions
The resilience of the Mission grape is evident in its preference for hot, dry climates, a trait that facilitated its spread across the southern United States and South America. In California, it was introduced by Franciscan monk Junipero Serra in 1769, finding a favorable environment in the warm, dry conditions of areas like Santa Barbara and Los Angeles. The grape’s hardiness and drought resistance made it an ideal candidate for the harsh climates of these regions, where it flourished under the Californian sun.

In Chile, the grape is widely planted, rivalling Cabernet Sauvignon in its prevalence. Here, the dry summers and the rich, varied soil profiles, from alluvial terrains to volcanic earth, contribute to the growth of the Pais grape. Unlike its North American counterpart, Chilean Pais has found a new lease of life, especially within the natural wine movement and among producers looking to craft top-end wines from this historical grape.

Aroma
Wines made from the Mission grape are known for their distinctive aromas, a bouquet that captures the essence of this varietal’s rich history. The nose often presents a rustic charm, with scents ranging from earthy and herbal notes to sweeter, fruit-driven aromas like dark berries and dried figs. This complexity of aroma adds a layer of depth to the wines, making them intriguing to both the novice and the seasoned wine enthusiast.

Taste
The taste of wines crafted from Mission grapes reflects their aromatic complexity. Typically, these wines exhibit a lighter body with low acidity and a gentle sweetness, characteristics derived from the grape’s high sugar content. The flavor profile is nuanced, featuring a blend of fruitiness reminiscent of ripe cherries and plums, alongside subtle hints of spice and earth. Despite the grape’s weak color and historical association with bulk wine production, modern vinification techniques have allowed winemakers to extract more concentration and depth, resulting in wines that balance sweetness with a richer, more robust character.

The Mission grape’s journey from sacramental wine to a component of high-quality table wines and fortified Angelica showcases its versatility and enduring appeal. As winemakers continue to explore and experiment with this historic varietal, the Mission grape stands as a testament to the adaptability and resilience of Vitis vinifera, bridging past and present in the ever-evolving narrative of wine.